紐時賞析／加州有些城市向得來速說再見

In California, Some Cities Are Done With Drive-Thrus

加州有些城市向得來速說再見

In parts of California, the car-obsessed state that gave rise to America’s fast-food drive-thru culture. Leaders in several cities are calling for drive-thru crackdowns, arguing that they threaten the modern California Dream of clean air, safe streets and walkable communities.

在催生美國速食得來速文化、極度依賴汽車的加州，部分地區開始出現反制聲浪。多座城市的官員呼籲加強限制得來速餐廳，認為這類設施正威脅當代的「加州夢」：清淨的空氣、安全的街道，以及適合步行的社區。

This summer, Culver City, a 5-square-mile community with about 40,000 people on the congested Westside of Los Angeles County, moved to halt what locals complained was an untenable pileup of drive-thrus.

今年夏天，位於洛杉磯郡交通壅塞西區的卡爾弗市，著手遏止得來速餐廳持續增加。這座面積僅5平方英里、人口約4萬人的城市，居民抱怨得來速餐廳密集程度已令人難以承受。

So when the iconic California chain proposed another location with a 26-car queue and 61 parking spaces at the juncture of three major streets — a “mega-drive-thru,” as neighbors called it — it touched off a rebellion.

因此，當這家代表性的加州連鎖品牌提議在3條主要道路交會處再開一家分店，規畫可容納26輛車的排隊車道與61個停車位時，立刻引發居民反彈。鄰居把它稱為「巨型得來速」。

“I have been on the City Council for a year and a half, and nothing we’ve done has caused this much attention,” said Bryan “Bubba” Fish, the vice mayor. “Look, I love a burger and fries as much as the next person. But hundreds of people were writing in, worried about traffic, air quality, safety and mobility.”

副市長布萊恩．「巴巴」．費許說：「我任市議員1年半以來，我們做過的任何事情都沒有引起這麼大的關注。聽著，我和其他人一樣喜歡漢堡和薯條，但有數百人寫信來，擔心交通、空氣品質、安全與通行問題。」

When the City Council responded with a plan to permanently ban new drive-thrus, however, they were unexpectedly pummeled with right-wing blowback.

不過，市議會提出永久禁止新設得來速餐廳的計畫後，卻意外遭右翼猛烈抨擊。

The New York Post called it a “war on fast food.” Commentators on Newsmax said the vote was “anti-family.”

《紐約郵報》稱此舉是「對速食宣戰」；Newsmax的評論員則說是「與家庭為敵」。

Tens of thousands of drive-thrus operate in California. The founders of In-N-Out are credited with inventing the genre when they hung a two-way speaker outside their Los Angeles-area restaurant in 1948.

加州有數以萬計的得來速餐廳。In-N-Out創辦人被認為是這種經營模式的先驅；1948年，他們在洛杉磯地區的餐廳外裝設雙向對講機，讓顧客可以直接在車內點餐。

Around Southern California, Santa Monica has continued to ban drive-thru restaurants even in the midst of a municipal budget crisis and the city of Santa Barbara has banned drive-thrus for decades. A proposed In-N-Out in Palm Springs is still awaiting its shot after two years of city hearings. Concerns include traffic and fears that the architecture isn’t midcentury modern enough.

南加州其他地方也對得來速餐廳設限。聖塔莫尼卡即使正面臨市府預算危機，仍持續禁止設置得來速餐廳；聖塔芭芭拉則已禁了數十年。棕櫚泉一座規畫中的In-N-Out，經過2年市府聽證，至今仍在等待核准。反對者擔心的不只交通，也包括餐廳建築是否不夠符合當地著名的20世紀中葉現代主義風格。

A representative for In-N-Out said that “as a private, family-owned company, we generally don’t comment publicly on business matters.” But a senior development manager for the company, Peter Kulmaticki, told the City Council in Culver City in June that the company was “surprised” by the proposed ban and found it unnecessary.

In-N-Out發言人表示：「身為一家家族持有的私人公司，我們通常不會公開評論營運事務。」不過，公司資深開發經理彼得．庫馬蒂基6月向卡爾弗市議會表示，公司對禁令提案「感到意外」，並認為沒有必要。

文／Shawn Hubler，譯／國際中心

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【張佑生】

很難想像，幾乎成為都市生活日常的「得來速」(drive-thru)問世快80年了，是少數能兼顧音義的翻譯。報導用car-obsessed描述加州，不只是說加州人喜歡開車，也暗含城市空間、生活方式與政策，長期圍繞汽車設計。Give rise to是導致某事物出現，尤其是不好的事：The recent increase in prices has given rise to concerns about inflation.

居民抱怨an untenable pileup of drive-thrus，untenable是難以為繼，可形容政策、論點、財務狀況或現實局面。食安風暴延燒至今，當局在方方面面愈來愈無法自圓其說：This argument is untenable from an intellectual, moral and practical standpoint.

Pileup原意是連環車禍(a motorway pile-up)或物品堆積；這裡是比喻大量得來速餐廳集中出現，並帶來交通等問題，美語不用連字號。

當地居民擔憂建築風格not midcentury modern enough.這裡的midcentury modern 不是「中世紀」，而是20世紀中葉現代主義建築風格，大致盛行於1940至1960年代。棕櫚泉以這類建築聞名，常見特色包括低矮平伸的屋頂、大片玻璃、簡潔線條、開放式空間，以及和沙漠景觀融合。