紐時賞析／氣候素食 餐飲市場的新興勢力

The Rise of the Climatarian

氣候素食 餐飲市場的新興勢力

Torben Lonne, a 34-year-old scuba diver in Copenhagen, never eats without considering the carbon footprint and the emission level of the food he’s about to consume. For that reason, his diet revolves around locally sourced fruits and vegetables, and pizza. He avoids avocados, however.

34歲的朗恩是丹麥首都哥本哈根的水肺潛水員，他在吃下任何食物之前，一定會先考量這食物的碳足跡和碳排放量問題。因此，他的飲食不脫在地蔬果和披薩。不過，他不吃酪梨。

“Avocados that are made for export are incredibly carbon-intensive, especially when you consider farm to plate is actually several thousand kilometers away,” Lonne said. “Aside from the logistics, avocado farms have depleted many rivers and lakes, particularly in South America, in order to sustain our voracious appetite for guacamole.”

朗恩說：「供外銷的酪梨碳密集度極高，尤其是考慮到從農場到餐桌實際上有數千公里遠。種酪梨除了運輸路途遙遠之外，還耗掉許多河川湖泊的水，特別在南美洲，為的是滿足我們對酪梨醬的貪欲。」

Lonne calls himself a climatarian, a term that first appeared in The New York Times in 2015, entered the Cambridge Dictionary the following year and is now becoming more common. Apps such as Kuri, introduced last year, offer climatarian recipes. Fast-casual restaurants including Just Salad and Chipotle are marking items that fit in the diet, like paleo before it, on their menus.

朗恩自稱氣候素食者，這個詞2015年首先出現在紐約時報上，隔年收入劍橋字典，如今變得更常見。一些應用程式提供氣候素食食譜，去年上架的Kuri就是一例。Just Salad、奇波雷等快速慢食餐廳一如先前推出「原始人飲食」般，現在也在菜單上把合乎氣候素食要求的菜式加以標註。

There are also climatarian-friendly brands, including Moonshot, a carbon-neutral company in San Francisco that makes a line of crackers from regeneratively grown ingredients with stone-milled, heirloom wheat and 100% recycled packaging.

有些品牌標榜對氣候素食者友善，包括美國加州舊金山碳中和公司Moonshot，製造一系列薄脆餅乾，採用再生農業生產的原料、石磨祖傳種小麥和百分之百再生包裝。

When Just Salad added a climatarian menu option in September, more than 10% of their salad sales came from that menu, said Sandra Noonan, the chain’s chief sustainability officer, a position created in 2019.

Just Salad永續長珊卓．努南說，去年9月推出氣候素食菜單後，超過10%的沙拉營業額來自這種飲食。永續長是2019年新設的職位。

Those who follow the diet stick with fruits and vegetables that are in season relative to their region; they avoid meat that comes from factory farms; and they seek local ingredients because those have lower carbon footprints, said Brian Kateman, the president and co-founder of Reducetarian Foundation, a nonprofit organization in Providence, Rhode Island, that encourages eating fewer animal products. Many reducetarians are also climatarians: cutting back because they’re concerned about the climate crisis.

美國羅德島州首府普羅維登斯的「減少肉食基金會」是提倡少吃畜產品的非營利組織，共同創辦人兼會長凱特曼說，氣候素食者堅持食用當地當季的蔬果，不吃工廠化農場生產的肉類，注重在地食材，因為碳足跡較少。許多少肉主義者也是氣候素食者，因為他們也擔心氣候危機。

Kateman, 31, became one after reading a 2007 book, “The Ethics of What We Eat,” by Peter Singer and Jim Mason. He was horrified to learn that greenhouse gas emissions from agriculture increased by 12% from 1990 to 2019, according to the Environmental Protection Agency.

31歲的凱特曼讀了2007年出版、辛格和梅森合著的「飲食倫理」一書後，成了氣候素食者。他很震驚地從美國國家環境保護署的資料得知，從1990年到2019年，農業的溫室氣體排放量增加了12%。

While many climatarians aren’t vegetarians, since they believe that chicken or lamb are much better choices than beef, some eschew meat altogether since vegetables overall have a lower carbon footprint.

許多氣候素食者並不吃素，他們認為吃雞肉和羊肉已經遠比吃牛肉好了，不過也有一些氣候素食者完全棄絕肉類，因為蔬菜類整體而言碳足跡較少。

文／Danielle Braff 譯／李京倫 核稿／樂慧生