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紐時賞析/藝術逐漸平易近人 漫畫和時裝的異業結合

2019-07-17 16:06紐時賞析

聖羅蘭的漫畫創作La Vilaine Lulu的原創素描。圖/取自The New...
聖羅蘭的漫畫創作La Vilaine Lulu的原創素描。圖/取自The New York Times
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Of Comic Books and Couture

漫畫和時裝的異業結合

In 1967, Yves Saint Laurent introduced La Vilaine Lulu, the beastly little star of a comic book — or bande dessinée — that he wrote and illustrated.

1967年,聖羅蘭推出了露露(La Vilaine Lulu),是他自己撰稿並繪製插圖的漫畫集中的惡劣小明星。連環漫畫的法文為Bande dessinée。

Short and squat with a froggy face, wearing a beribboned boater and a scarlet cancan skirt that she would flip up to expose her naked derrière, La Vilaine Lulu terrorized her teachers, schoolmates, passersby — well, everyone, really. A devil child, that Lulu.

露露矮矮胖胖、臉長得像青蛙、頭戴紅緞帶草帽,身穿深紅色康康舞蓬裙,她會掀開裙子露出光溜溜的屁股,老師、同學、路人,不妨這麼說吧,真的是所有人,都讓她給嚇到了。這Lulu是個魔鬼般的孩子。

Now she is a cornerstone for “Mode et Bande Dessinée” (“Fashion and Comic Books”), which its organizers say is the first major exhibition to take a comprehensive look at fashion in comic books and graphic novels, through Jan. 5 at the Cité Internationale de la Bande Dessinée et de l’Image in Angoulême, France.

如今,她是「Mode et Bande Dessinée」(時尚與漫畫)展覽的一大台柱。主辦方表示,這是第一個全面審視漫畫和圖像小說中時尚的大型展覽,展場在法國安古蘭國際漫畫影像城,展至1月5日。

As the fall couture season begins on Monday in Paris, the show is a reminder that, while luxury fashion is often viewed as elitist, it has a way of trickling down commercially and artistically to unexpected yet highly accessible places — and vice versa. Comic-Con International and the elaborate character outfits worn by fans are just one flash of the impact.

隨著巴黎秋季時裝季在周一開跑,這場展覽提醒人們,雖然奢華時尚常被視為屬於菁英人士,它卻有辦法在商業與藝術上逐漸向下滲透到意料之外、但又相當平易近人之處,反之亦然。國際漫畫展跟粉絲們身上所穿精心製作的角色人物服裝,則只是這股影響力的一個印證。

“Jean Paul Gaultier, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Thierry Mugler were obviously influenced by B.D.s,” said Thierry Groensteen, the exhibition’s curator,“You see it in Castelbajac’s sweater dresses, with B.D. motifs, and Mugler’s Cat Woman suit, with its cagoule with little ears.”

策展人堤西.葛宏斯汀說:「高堤耶、季恩查理士卡斯提貝艾克與穆勒顯然受到漫畫的影響。你可以看到季恩查理士卡斯提貝艾克的針織毛衣洋裝有著漫畫圖案,以及有小耳朵的連帽薄風衣的穆勒的貓女套裝。」

Two hours by train from Paris, Angoulême is France’s capital of comic books. Each year since 1974, it has hosted the Angoulême International Comic Festival, a four-day event that last year drew more than 200,000 B.D. enthusiasts. The Cité, which opened in 1990, now houses 13,000 original plates and 250,000 B.D.s — the world’s second largest collection of French-language comics (after the Billy Ireland Cartoon Library & Museum at Ohio State University in Columbus).

距巴黎兩小時火車車程的安古蘭是法國漫畫之都。自1974年以來,每年都舉辦安古蘭國際漫畫節,這為期四日的活動去年吸引了超過20萬名漫畫迷。1990年開幕、目前擁有1萬3千件原稿與25萬冊漫畫的漫畫影像城,是世界上法語漫畫藏書量第二多的地方(僅次於美國哥倫布俄亥俄州立大學比利愛爾蘭卡通圖書館暨博物館)。

Pierre Lungheretti, the Cité’s director, said its collection traces the genre, known officially in France as “the 9th art,” from “the birth of comic books in the 19th century to today.”

漫畫影像城負責人皮耶.隆賀堤表示,它的收藏追溯了這個在法國正式名稱為「第九藝術」的文學類別,時間從「19世紀漫畫畫誕生到今日」。

In addition to the museum, which has about 70,000 visitors a year, there is a reference library, two screening rooms, bookstore, a restaurant and residences where as many as 50 comic book authors are invited to spend from three months to four years working on their latest projects.

除了每年約有7萬名參觀者的博物館外,還有1個參考書館、2間放映室、一間書店、一間餐廳,以及邀請50名漫畫家進駐3個月到4年以完成最新創作的住所。

So loved are comic books in France that the Ministry of Culture has declared 2020 the “Année de la B.D.,” with dozens of events scheduled throughout the country.

由於漫畫在法國深受喜愛,文化部已經宣布2020為「法國漫畫年」,並在全國各地排定數十場活動。

文/Dana Thomas 譯/陳韋廷

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