紐時賞析/無政府角落 警察與毒販玩貓捉老鼠

聯合報 紐時賞析

In Anarchic Corner of Copenhagen,Police and Dealers Play Cat and Mouse

When a phalanx of Danish policemen in bulletproof vests crosses the boundary into Christiania Freetown, the hippie commune in the center of Copenhagen, many things happen at once.

當穿著防彈背心的丹麥警察越界進入克里斯蒂安尼亞自由城,這個位於哥本哈根市中心的嬉皮公社時,許多事也瞬間發生。

There is urgent shouting. Lumps of hashish and bags of marijuana disappear into black vinyl sacks, which are then rolled up and thrown onto roofs, hidden under floorboards and stuffed into ingeniously camouflaged hidey-holes — inside hollow propane tanks or behind mirrors. The dealers themselves scatter, sneakers pounding.

有急切的喊叫聲。一塊塊大麻膏和一包包大麻被塞進黑色塑膠袋,捲成團扔上屋頂,藏到地板下,或塞進巧妙偽裝的藏放處─空瓦斯桶裡或鏡子後方。毒販本身則作鳥獸散,發出運動鞋快跑聲。

By the time police officers reach the open-air hash market on Pusher Street, pistols at their hips, the scent of hash has been replaced by the scent of cinnamon rolls, and half the population is missing. Police march through, poking ineffectually at the drug-dealers’ empty stalls.

手槍掛腰間的警察抵達毒販街的露天大麻膏市場時,大麻膏的氣味早被肉桂捲的香氣取代,一半的人消失無蹤。警察在市場中前行,無效地在空空如也的毒販攤中戳找。

The officers, burly and heavily armed, survey the marketplace with their legs planted far apart, projecting dominance. But that is not the case. Within seconds of their departure, the bustling drug market reassembles itself and business resumes.

身形魁梧且全副武裝的這些警察,叉開兩腿打量著市場,說明一切在掌控中。但事實並非如此。他們離開數秒後,熱鬧的販毒市場又重新組合,繼續營業。

This dance has taken place several times a day this summer between the government of Denmark and Freetown Christiania, one of Europe’s longest-running utopian experiments.

丹麥政府和克里斯蒂安尼亞自由城的這場舞蹈,今夏每天都上演數次,後者也是歐洲上演最久的烏托邦實驗之一。

The area was an abandoned military base in 1971 when squatters broke down the barricades and occupied 84 acres of land, declaring “a self-governing society” of artists and freethinkers. Denmark has allowed the commune to exist for nearly half a century, in violation of property laws, planning laws and drug laws.

1971年時該區是個廢棄的軍事基地,這一年土地侵占者破壞了障礙物,占據了84英畝土地,宣稱它是藝術家和自由思想家的一個「自治社會」。丹麥允許該社區存在已近半個世紀,違反財產法,都市計畫法和毒品法。

Christiania is now one of Copenhagen’s biggest tourist attractions, the subject of a vast number of academic studies and a kind of living monument to Danish tolerance.

克里斯蒂安尼亞現今是哥本哈根最夯的旅遊景點之一,是大量學術研究的主題,也是丹麥寬容精神鮮活的見證。

“If it had happened in Germany or France, the military would have shut it down,” said Jiesper Tristan Pedersen, an anthropologist and occasional resident of Christiania. “Danish policy back then was more gentle. They were irritated, they didn’t know what to do, but they didn’t want to use violence. A lot of people look at it this way, as Danish gentleness and politeness.”

人類學家、偶爾也是克里斯蒂安尼亞居民的季斯伯.特里斯坦.派德森說:「倘若它發生在德國或法國,軍方早已將它關閉。當時的丹麥政策更加溫和。他們很憤怒,不知該怎麼辦,但不想使用暴力。很多人認為這代表丹麥人的和善有禮。」

The mood in Denmark has swung to law and order, though, in recent years. Urban housing projects have become the scene of increasing drug offenses and gang activity. And as anxiety rises, so does support for the anti-immigrant far right.

不過,近年來丹麥的氛圍轉向講求法律與秩序。一些公宅毒品犯罪和幫派活動與日俱增。隨著焦慮升高,反移民極右派的支持度也同樣升高。

Conservative-leaning politicians have promised to shut down the Pusher Street drug trade, noting a jarring act of violence that occurred two years ago, when a dealer shot and injured two policemen. This summer has been tense.

保守傾向的政治人物承諾關閉毒販街的毒品交易,指出兩年前曾發生的一起暴力事件,一名毒販槍傷兩名警察。今夏氣氛也始終緊張。

文/Ellen Barry 譯/王麗娟

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